Home 231, Harrisburg, markets itself as a “stylish restaurant serving seasonally-focused homestyle cuisine.” Therefore, I wasn’t surprised to find deviled eggs nestled on the Small Plates menu between the chorizo corn dogs and the fried green tomatoes. For me, deviled eggs are both a food item from my childhood and a symbol of American cuisine, but these eggs pushed my expectations beyond just a food that, in my mind, used to make or break the dinner of a good housewife.
At Home 231, the deviled egg platter is served with three types: classic, bacon, and red beet — the red beet made in the Pennsylvania Dutch spirit of pickling by soaking the eggs in a mixture of spices, red beets, and vinegar. Beyond the visual appeal — each egg is a tiny artist’s canvas, dusted with paprika or a sprinkling of chives — these eggs are a full-fledged mouthful. These farm fresh eggs encase yolk that is whipped so light that it’s almost ethereal; the yolk suspends on your tongue an instant before dissolving into the crispness of toppings like julienned bacon or a crown of fresh herbs.
If classic deviled eggs can be treated so delicacy, I deem the rest of the menu of Home 231 is worth sampling. For brunch, try the smoked trout & bagel with whipped cream cheese, tomato, red onion, and capers ($10) or splurge on the dinner menu’s in-house pasta (specials rotate daily, $20).